Grand Logarithmic Grit Chart
Questions and Answers
Questions & Answers
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Recent Questions

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Gibu  •  1 year ago
Is this the same when lapping Venev resin bonded diamond stones like the Centaur, or do you need approximately equal grits?
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NYCJay  •  1 year ago
Same. Half the grit size is ideal but for practicality reasons you'll have to allow some flexibility if you have a lot of stones or you'll end up with a lot of (not cheap) grit powder jars.
Gibu  •  1 year ago
Can Gritomatic confirm this?
⚙️Leading Edge  •  1 year ago
This is correct, but in reality there is no real hard and fast rule. That said, you can lap all your stones with your coarsest grit to get the job done faster. After they are lapped or flattened, then use a finer grit to smooth them out. You can really go as fine as you prefer (up to equalling the grit of the stone itself if that's your preference). Even if a stone was flattened or lapped with a very coarse grit silicon carbide, it will only really be the first few strokes of using them when they will perform more aggressively than their grit rating. (How long exactly depends on the harness of the bond, the grit of the stone and what type of steel you're sharpening) Thereafter, they quickly even out and go back to normal.
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Gibu  •  1 year ago
Is this the same when lapping Venev resin bonded diamond stones like the Centaur, or do you need approximately equal grits?
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  9 months ago
Equal or half grits will work fine. The coarser surface will smooth out relatively quickly during sharpening due to the resin bond being softer than the diamond abrasive inside the bond.
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kdawgnc  •  1 year ago
Any one have an issue with a Venev diamond matrix 80 grit not cutting as well as diamond 120 plate? I thought my knife blades were crazy hard, but when I tried the 120 grit diamond plate, it cute a new edge as I thought the $90 80 matrix stone would.

I cleaned the matrix stone with dish soap and a stiff brush, it was better, but not like an 80 grit diamond plate.

If there is not a problem, I'm disappointed in the expensive stones.
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  1 year ago
Any diamond plated stone will cut much more aggressively than a resin or bonded type stone but it will not leave the same quality of a fine edge. The diamonds protrude above the plate surface on a plated stone, so they are much more aggressive and will remove metal faster. This is a positive when you need to remove metal fast, but it is very aggressive on the blade and will leave micro damage.

Diamond plates are great for new bevel setting and damage repair on a blade, but once the hard work is done, it is far better to use a resin or bonded type stone for finishing it off and for all future sharpening on that knife.
kdawgnc  •  1 year ago
Dang, wish I had known that. A better purchase for me would have been a 400 or 800 grit matrix and a course plate for hogging. Got any suggestions for the best plates to get for edge creation?
kdawgnc  •  1 year ago
BTW, thanks for the input
⚙️Leading Edge  •  1 year ago
No problem. Any cheap low grit (around about 100 grit or so) diamond plate would be good for bevel setting hogging off steel relatively fast. Most of them are very cheap, you don't have to spend much money on a low grit plate. I would still hold on to your Venev stones though, they are awesome at producing a superbly finished edge, even on the lower grits.
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Guest  •  2 years ago
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  2 years ago
Both of these stone types are top quality stones that will work on any steel and leave a razor sharp edge. It largely comes down to personal preference.

Matrix stones are made in the USA and have a slightly softer bond than the Venev stones. The maker of the Matrix stones recommends edge trailing sharpening strokes due to the softer bond. With Venev stones you can sharpen any way you prefer - edge leading, trailing, scrubbing etc.

The Matrix stones have a very nice milled aluminum backing which looks and works great. The Venev Orion stones have an aluminum backing which has been cut in stead of milled, but also works well.
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Guest  •  2 years ago
C25% 2/1 Venev Industrial Diamonds back side, stone side stamped 16/ OTK
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  2 years ago
Q - what grit is this stone. the only markings on this stone are,
C25% 2/1 Venev Industrial Diamonds back side, stone side stamped 16/ OTK?

A - The 2/1 stone is a bit finer than the F1500 grit Fepa-F rating. 2/1 is the particle size of the diamonds in micro meters. So, the grit particles in this stone is mostly between 2 and 1 micron.
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Guest  •  2 years ago
I have a set of Venev diamond stones in grits from 240-1500. What grits are they equivalent to in my large Chosera hand sharpening stones?
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  2 years ago
Have a look at the Gritomatic grand logarithmic grit chart in the link below:

https://www.gritomatic.com/pages/grit...

Your Venev stones are rated using the Fepa-F grit rating, and Naniwa Chosera stones would be approximately the JIS R 6001 rating. You can compare the grit rating side by side.

As an example, your Venev F1500 stone in the Fepa-F colmun would equate to approximately #6000 grit JIS R 6001. Compared to a Japanese Shapton stone, it would be around #8000.

Note, for a great every day use edge with a lot of bite, you might consider finishing with your Venev F400 or at the most the F800 stone.
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D.Y.  •  2 years ago
Hi, my higher grit Venev Orion stones haven't been performing as well and they have these little "pores" that I don't think were there before. I could use some help on maintaining them.

I own the Idahone eraser, Bodrid dressing stone, and the Breeze semi-natural nagura. The description on the latter two are relatively vague, could you explain the how they work and why they are helpful? I also own some SiC lapping powder. What, if any, measures do you recommend?

Thank you very much for your help.
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  2 years ago  •  Voted Best Answer
Q - Hi, my higher grit Venev Orion stones haven't been performing as well and they have these little "pores" that I don't think were there before. I could use some help on maintaining them.

I own the Idahone eraser, Bodrid dressing stone, and the Breeze semi-natural nagura. The description on the latter two are relatively vague, could you explain the how they work and why they are helpful? I also own some SiC lapping powder. What, if any, measures do you recommend?

Thank you very much for your help.

A - Typically, a conditioning stone consists of a softer or similar bond than the stone it is used on. Both Bodrid and Breeze stones you have fall in this category. When you wet them and rub them over the surface of the stone you're conditioning, they release their abrasive and bond readily, leaving some abrasive on the surface of the stone being conditioned. This removes the very top , very thin layer of the stone being conditioned and thus refreshes & cleans the surface of the stone.

Using SiC lapping powder will act the same, but much more aggressively remove more of the stone being lapped, removing more of the top of the stone. If done correctly, this flattens and completely refreshes the stone being lapped. In your case, it may be necessary to do this.
D.Y.  •  2 years ago
I appreciate the depth of your explanation and how quickly you responded (to both my questions), thank you. If possible, I have one further question (at least about this particular topic haha): What is the difference between silicon carbide and aluminum oxide powders when flattening stones? Is it just personal preference or are there times when one is specifically better than the other? Thanks again.
⚙️Leading Edge  •  2 years ago
My pleasure. Silicon carbide is harder than aluminum oxide and aluminum oxide breaks down a little faster but when it comes to using either of them as for flattening / conditioning bonded stones, they both work. In most cases, the bond of these stones are significantly "softer" than aluminum oxide or silicon carbide.
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Guest  •  2 years ago
Are "OCB" and "OSB" just two alternate Latinizations of the Cyrillic rendering of whatever Russian phrase Venev used to name their resin binder?
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⚙️Leading Edge  •  1 year ago
Yes, OCB & OSB is the same binder.
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